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Rick Owens Paris shop owner Barbara Mariani shares cool chic fashion secrets
Rick Owens Paris shop owner Barbara Mariani shares cool chic fashion secrets

Richard Nahem interviews the woman behind the super stylish and cutting edge boutique

Barbara Mariani and I immediately clicked when we met-- I also clicked with the super chic, to-die-for pieces in the Rick Owens Palais Royal shop, including a leather coat that had my name on it. Magnifique!

Barbara Mariani is the part owner and manager of the wildly successful Rick Owens shop in Paris.

Barbara Mariani is the part owner and manager of the wildly successful Rick Owens shop in Paris.

We are all Americans who live and work in Paris. Barbara began her career in fashion in 1988 by opening a flagship store for the French designer Christian de Castelneau on Madison Avenue in New York. It was about the same time that Adriane Vittadini “popped” on the fashion scene. There she had the invaluable experience of giving birth to a project and catering to an elite clientele that included Jackie Onassis and Grace Jones.

After moving to Paris, Barbara worked for the small fashion house, Chacok. In 2000, she was offered the post of commercial director of pret-a-porter for Pierre Balmain.

At the end of 2005, Barbara became associated with Rick Owens and his wife Michele Lamy when they began looking for a retail partner to open their first store in Paris. Armand Hadida, founder and owner of the super chic Paris shop, L’Eclaireur, introduced Barbara to Michele as a potential manager/partner. From the moment that she walked into Michele’s office, it was “love at first sight.” Without undue exaggeration, it was a “done deal” on both sides. Barbara found herself on a plane to Italy 48 hours later to meet Rick and his Italian investors. The rest is Kismet.

While I was waiting to interview her in the Rick Owens shop last week, I had the opportunity to watch Barbara in action. It was great to see how she selected the just the right garments for her customers.

Here are some of Barbara’s style secrets on how to bring the Rick Owens look into your wardrobe.

How do you describe the look of the line?

Rick's vision is totally focused on the here and now. At the same time, it gives the wearer the feeling of being way ahead of the game in terms of versatility, wearability, and sheer luxury. He has perfected THE LOOK for dread dead, end of the world glamour and decadence.

 

Advertisement | Rick Owens at LuisaRoma.com

Tell us a little bit about the Rick Owens dream customer-- what is she like, her age, lifestyle, joie de vivre?

He /she/ is a woman/man/child, ambiguous, and androgynous sole who is creative, ageless, and who passes effortlessly from his/her masculine to feminine side, daywear to eveningwear like a shadow. Rick brings the woman or man into sharp focus, and the wearer is hooked the moment he/she sees that age is irrelevant in Rick's world.

 

There is a most definite avant-garde fashion point of view, yet there is something rather classic in its way. What makes a Rick Owens garment both timeless and ageless?

Mannequin at the Rick Owens, Paris shop

Mannequin at the Rick Owens, Paris shop

We literally work with adolescents of 16 to icons of 70+. Rick’s work is timeless and ageless in the sense that in this day and age, when fashion has become disposable, the owner of a Rick piece never gets tired or wants to part with his treasure. It is a rare day that a Rick piece will show up in a resale store and if it does it is snatched up almost immediately.

 

What looks would you suggest to someone new to the collection who wants to experiment with new styles?

Clients enter the changing cabin for the first time with skepticism but their invariable phrase as they exit the cabin, in all languages boils down to "Eureka, I feel fantastic!"

To start with for a medium sized to tall woman, begin with a basic silhouette: a pair of bias cut georgette trousers which are sooooooo flattering and comfortable, a men's long racer back T-shirt draped over the tummy, and a sublime cashmere wrap.

Low heel boots by Rick Owens

Low heel boots by Rick Owens

For a smaller woman, opt for a georgette bias cut skirt instead of the trousers. Everyone will LOVE his cashmere leggings and don't neglect to try on at least one of his legendary leather jackets... a pair of wedge ankle boots will immediately update your silhouette and are so comfortable that one can wear them shopping all day, and go on to a cocktail and late dinner without the slightest twinge of fatigue or discomfort.

 

Please tell us about who wears Rick’s clothes and about the shop’s clientele. We’d love to hear some celebrity names...

Rick’s vision has been adopted by the most amazingly diverse clientele imaginable: the planet’s rock and roll elite, successful underworld characters, movie stars, rock stars, film producers, fashion savvy millionaires/billionaires, opera divas, fashionistas, bankers who are tired of looking like bankers, students who save their dollars painstakingly for months to buy a T-shirt, famous and not so famous models, architects, authors, football stars, basketball stars and their wives, and god knows who else…

The lifelike statue of Rick in his Paris shop.

The lifelike statue of Rick in his Paris shop.

Brad Pitt buys our T-shirts and an occasional leather jacket. Bruce Springsteen is a fan of our jeans and Lenny Kravitz is a client. Courtney Love was among the first to discover Rick’s line a zillion years ago in LA-- Courtney is still among the first clients to place an order every season. Fergie comes into the store and wears EVERYTHING so well. Daphne Guinness pops in and so does Eugenie Niarcos, Lindsay Lohan, Vanessa Traina, Zhang Ziyi, Vivi Nevo, and the Spielberg Family….

 

If you tell us just one thing about Rick Owens, what would it be?

No matter how hard we try to unveil the secret of his genius, Rick Owens, the man, will remain a mystery. BUT, whatever you spend in a Rick Owen's store, you will NEVER REGRET IT. -- Richard Nahem, The Paris Insider

Advertisement | Rick Owens at Farfetch.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

In Paris:
Rick Owens
Jardins du Palais Royal
130-133 Galerie de Valois, 1st arr.
Metro: Palais Royal
Tel. 01 40 20 42 52
rickowens.eu

Photos, this page only, Richard Nahem

Lead photo of Rick Owens from the Gareth Pugh Spring / Summer 2010 fashion show

Published on February 02, 2010

Richard Nahem

Richard, The Paris Insider - Expat New Yorker and good time bon vivant, Richard Nahem is a fashion and trend insider reporting on what's nouveau in Paris. Richard is the founder of the wildly popular blog, Eye Prefer Paris and leads private shopping tours of Paris via Eye Prefer Paris Tours. He is a chocolate truffle hound who knows how to get to the front of the line. www.eyepreferparis.com / www.eyepreferparistours.com

Tags: Barbara Mariani, designer, French chic, interview, Paris, Paris chic, Retail Remedy, Richard Nahem, Rick Owens, Rick Owens Palais Royal shop, shopping
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