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Derek Lam Spring 2012 Runway is Full of Louche Sportswear

Derek Lam Spring 2012 Runway

Runway Review: Plenty of key pieces we all can wear and stylize!

Lucky for you, Derek Lam’s recent Spring 2012 outing stays mostly consistent within his timeless sportswear mentality and time tested hallmarks- clean colors, color blocking and sleek tailoring.

His crisp palette of bright whites, coral, seafoam, yellow and toasted brown sheen leather should make smart choices for sunny spring days lounging around a rooftop pool.

As always, fabric details were key here and Lam’s knits define this point with variegated ribs, honeycomb stitches and a sharp diamond jacquard that was worked into a dress, a skirt and a short sleeve and long sleeve top- must-have items that can be worn in a myriad of ways. A basketweave pattern evokes a sweet kitschy sense of summer; best paired with a Pimm’s Cup!

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The disconnect came with an ambitious oversize print that would have worked best as an interior lining instead of appearing heavy-handed on dresses, blouses and (gasp!) a jumpsuit. Then there was the bit of the collection that seemed inconsistent with this direction and we were thrown patchwork sequins, an oversized pucci-esque print and a wonky fireman’s hat that should have never made the cut!

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This print was also chosen to make an appearance on a fireman’s hat that I would not suggest being worn unless you are at a costume party! Within this realm of self-declared wrong turns there were two pieces in a patchwork of sequins. I can appreciate sequins, but this felt very inconsistent with previous clean looks and I was not the only one confused by their intention. If you are looking for sequins for Spring 2012, head to Custo Barcelona, not Derek Lam.

Derek Lam spring 2012 runway

Ladies, don’t be discouraged, there are plenty of key pieces we all can wear and stylize! A sheer white blouse with black placket, picot trim and a delicate black applique on the collar points will look hot worn with an exposed black bra and your must-have wide leg pants. A toasted brown leather blazer that hits at high hip is a fresh wear-to-work item. A white basketweave sundress and a deep v-neck yellow sundress are a must have for poolside parties. Wide leg white trousers with thin, black color blocked lines on the inseam and outseam to really lengthen those legs.

And the last two looks of the show, wide leg jumpsuits in soft cream and bright coral, can be dressed up for your formal occasions. I give a double thumbs up to all the light sweater knits – how you will choose which one to buy will be your own conundrum, it’s hard to choose from the line-up. Let’s all just pass on that hat…please! - Alix Kivlin

Alix’s photo gallery of the Spring 2012 Derek Lam fashion show…

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Photos: Alix Kivlin

Published on September 17, 2011

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