In their words…
JOHN VARVATOS Fall/Winter 2011/12
“I am more interested in personality than trends. What I find exciting about fashion is that you can use clothes to build characters that morph and change season after season while keeping faith to their core values. My ethos has always been about a modern take on the old world. The men I have in mind are intrigued by the past, but don’t let nostalgia trap them into an anachronistic dream: they are resolutely connected with the present. Old school savoir faire and a contemporary, nonchalant approach to dressing have never been mutually exclusive for me.
On the contrary, they are the DNA of my style. For this collection, I thought about a traveler: a man with a deeply felt hunger to experience and explore; a wanderer whose quest for knowledge brings him on a train ride from the metropolis to the small villages, and back.
He is dressed in layers: he wears his suede biker jacket under a woolen coat, or a coat-vest over the slouchy cardigan, securing it all with a sturdy belt at the waist. More than ever before, fabrics and treatments have been the starting point of the creative process: from cold-dyeing to scratching and bonding, all means have been explored to create clothes that are subtle to the eye as they are intense to the touch. The freewheeling mix makes for an anti-uniform statement: these men are different from their fathers. They are sophisticated and rustic,” says designer John Varvatos of his fall/winter 2011/12 collection.
Silhouette. Relaxed and individual
The look is soft, with a certain nonchalance. Outerwear, tailored pieces, shirts and knitwear caress the body without revealing it. Fluid lines and multiple layers suggest a take on style that is both protective and pragmatic.
Jackets and outerwear. Soft and elegant.
3 length coats, either double-breasted or single-breasted with a peak lapel, are essential to the traveler look. The cut is lean, and the absence of extra fillings makes even the sturdier-looking pieces totally weightless.
Edwardian style coats are raw hemmed, while facing creates a layered effects on jackets and coats, peeking from the hem.
Dip-dyed sleeveless coats are worn as vest; hooks ‘n eye closures and studs in place of sleeve buttons give an unexpected twist to sleek tailored jackets.
Vests add a gentlemanly touch.
Trousers. Slouchy and trim.
Tailored combats made in textured suiting fabrics create a paper bag effect on top, then slim down towards the bottom.
Shirts. Sophisticated yet rustic.
Meant to be worn outside of trousers as both a top or an under-layer, shirts come elongated and raw-hemmed, with wing collars and textured patters creating an intense visual contrast.
Knitwear. Warm and cozy.
Chunky long cardigan-jackets. Hand-knit alpaca and wool sweaters. Gauzy Fairisle crewnecks. Bonded and raw hemmed knit jackets. Knit is mixed with woven in sturdy cardigans and sweaters with either backs or sleeves made of textured wool fabric.
Body-hugging washed suede bikers. Brushed shearling coats. Felt-lined suede coats.
Fabrics. Intensely textural.
Wool and linen mixes; cold-dyed moleskine; seersucker effect wool. Metal threads add another layer of textural richness, as does scorching and scratching on surfaces.
Colors. Organic and muted.
Shades of brown: chocolate, mocha, rust. Vicuna. Wine red. Black.
Accessories. Scarves are paramount: large or slim, with or without leather tassels. Square-end narrow sashes can be worn as scarves or neckties. Fingerless driving gloves. Leather and felt lace-up boots with a chunky sole. Sandblasted briefcases, leather and felt totes and leather bags are integral to the traveler’s spirit.
Music. All Songs by The Black Keys
1. Chop and Change
2. Just Couldn’t Tie Me Down
3. Howlin’ For You
4. 10 A.M. Automatic
Finale. Have Love Will Travel
Photos: John Varvatos