John Varvatos -Menswear
Fashion Show Photos / Runway Collection
Spring / Summer 2011
Milan Fashion Week – Menswear
“My brand is celebrating its tenth year this season. The signature handwriting was developed early on – a mix of rock sensibility and old-school savoire faire with an emphasis on exclusive fabric and leathers in unexpected finishes and those all-important little details – and it’s remained consistent as we kept evolving through the years,” John Varvatos
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In their words:
“My brand is celebrating its tenth year this season. The signature handwriting was developed early on – a mix of rock sensibility and old-school savoire faire with an emphasis on exclusive fabric and leathers in unexpected finishes and those all-important little details – and it’s remained consistent as we kept evolving through the years.
Themes are fickle: they do not interest me. Characters are relevant: that’s what I always have in mind when I design. For this collection, I thought about a rock ‘n roll gentleman in the countryside: an urban exile living far from the maddening crowd but still up for an unexpected dose of dressing up. The interpretation is a relaxed, comfortable wardrobe made of light pieces that have a soft, worn-in elegance to them; clothing that is subtle as it is elegant and easy to interpret. Layering is a key theme, and is often rendered in unexpected ways: a shirt bottom attached to a vest; facing creating a layer on jacket’s collars and lapels. As ever, perfect imperfection is the keyword. With a well-deserved, and much-needed dash of romance” says designer John Varvatos of his Spring/Summer 2011 collection
Silhouette. Soft and weightless.
The look is sharp but not stiff, lived–in but not slouchy. Outerwear, tailored pieces, shirts and knitwear come lean and close to the body, but not too tight. Nonchalance is paramount.
Jackets and outerwear. Precise and sharply-cut, but never stiff.
Single-breasted, ? summer coats are totally devoid of extra fillings and padding, and are over-dyed for a lived-in effect and subtle texture. Crisp fabric trench-coats come half-belted in the back and closed with a tab on the front.
Military-inspired hook ‘n eye jackets have raw-edged details.
Seersucker-effect wool jackets are textured and light.
Cotton-linen tuxedo jackets are worn as daywear.
Shirts. Deceptively classic.
Washed and crinkled plaid patters create a subtle distortion.
Short-sleeved styles come with a knit cuff.
Trousers. Sleek and trim.
Combat styles have knit cuffed bottoms. White jeans. Rolled-up slim trousers.
Knitwear. Gauzy and thin:
Long twisted cardigans, stripy crewnecks. Heavier fair-isle jackets with toggle closures in muted hues and crochet cotton-silk sweaters.
Leather. Worn-in and soft.
Body-skimming washed lambskin motorcycle jackets and zipped up blousons come in earthy, organic hues.
Washed and soft, made of special mixes of fibers for a crisp but not stiff effect: cotton, cotton-linen, cotton-wool, cotton-silk, linen-silk, with or without metal threads.
Checks, glen plaids and traditional patterns are seen anew via artisanal over-dyeing. The effect is both visually striking and unique to the touch.
Romantic and muted.
Dusty blue, shades of grey, chocolate brown, black, white; dashes of lavender and plum.
John Varvatos’ signature over-dyed scarves, also worn as sashes. Garment dyed wingtip lace-less lace-ups with canvas combinations. Canvas boots. Buttoned derbys. Oversized totes with punched effects and canvas and leather duffles.
Show Music Playlist
1. Falling Down a Mountain / Tindersticks
2. For So Long / Wooden Shjips
3. Down The Line / The Gutter Twins
4. Bloodbuzz Ohio / The National
5. Gimme Shelter / Patti Smith
Photos: John Varvatos
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