Men’s ready to wear collection by Creative Director Nicola Formichetti
Fashion Show Photos / Video / Runway Collection
SPRING / SUMMER 2012
"BROTHERS OF ARCADIA" COLLECTION
MEN’S FASHION WEEK PARIS
Teaser to the controversial X-rated erotic fashion film video version on Xtube…
In their words…
MUGLER – BROTHERS OF ARCADIA MENSWEAR COLLECTION S/S 2012 Collection notes
‘I was interested in the idea of fantasy, dreams and voyeurism. I also liked the idea of modern and ancient myths,’ says Nicola Formichetti, the Creative Director of Mugler, about his thoughts behind this season’s collection and film. ‘I live in New York now but grew up in Rome with the Baroque and classical architecture and sculpture everywhere. So I suppose this project is a combination of the two things; there are surfers, footballers, porn stars and classical gods all rolled into one here.
He continues: ‘I was looking at Italian neo-realist cinema and then post that, where Fellini and Pasolini become more about myth and fantasy. I was also looking at the masculine ideals in Bruce Weber and Herb Ritts’ photography. At the same time I loved the idea and accessibility of pornography and that everyday voyeurism on XTube. Fashion is always referencing pornography, so there was an element in doing this film of just ‘cutting out the middleman’, but it is an erotic fashion film nonetheless – with a hint of Bel Ami.’
Nicola Formichetti uses his films for Mugler as a ‘moving mood-board’ for the collection to come. This one, made with the photographer Branislav Jankic, is no exception. In it he celebrates ideas of both masculine fraternity – particularly in a sporting, Olympian, heroic ideal – and male sexuality – an unashamed mining of the language of gay porn. It is this mixture of high ideals and low intentions that defines the film and the approach to masculine duality in the collection. It is also a continuation of his ambition for Mugler to be ‘Fashion Without Frontiers’: the film will feature a global launch on XTube.
In collaboration with the head menswear designer, Romain Kremer, the collection advances these ideas of male heroes and sexual types through cut, fabric, colour and silhouette, to stylised, almost Manga-like proportions. Stretch athletic fabrics and garments predominate – ranging from swimwear to a spin on motor cross gear – evoking the feel of a second skin. Even the old- fashioned preppy has a makeover in a cartoonish, vivid green. This is a colour that predominates throughout the collection and was taken directly from the Thierry Mugler archive – a combination of the electronic and the pastoral, a sort of sci-fi Arcadia.
Stonewashes feature throughout the collection. In grey in the first half of the presentation it denotes the sense of aging, classical structures. In the second half in denim, it denotes a switch to trashy trade. This duality is also present in the motif of the dissected silhouette, where tailoring is frequently held together by a transparent strip that also splits top from bottom.
The music for the show features a similar duality – as it does in the film – between Schubert and Jessica 6. The band provides an exclusive remix for the show and Nomi, the lead singer, is also one of the stars of the film.
Photos & Video: Mugler