Resort runways are often a precursor to what’s in store for Spring. Let’s consider…
A girl could lose her head.
Or at least spin it around so many times that it will catapult her neck and land in a frisson of colliding fashion seasons that all ineditably fall into one: What looks right on YOU now!
Spring is shown in late summer (at least by the scroching temps merely a week before NYFW). Fall in early winter. Then, there’s resort… resort? You have yet to think about autumn leaves!
In this insane goggle-muggle where fashion is shown in the time frame of when retailers need to place their orders for the following season and magazines need to pull for their three-month lead times, Fashion Week has taken a life of its own and is reported the nano-second that the model’s Louboutin hits the catwalk. What human with a robust life outside of the business could keep track of it all?
Since the smaller, more gentle fashion season of resort can be the first taste of what’s on trend for spring or a healthy mix of fall transending into a more nuanced state, we bring you resort runway 2010 from around the globe. Not in store just yet, but a heady update of what you may see on the Spring catwalks next week. Get inspired to create your own trendsetting season morph. Naveed Hussain takes you a fashion journey. –S.H.
The Best of Resort 20111: The Usual Suspects
We know the Resort 2011 shows wrapped over a month ago, but we thought what’s the rush? There are now major fashion shows & presentations every 3 months, it’s just way too much. Sure, we look at shows to inspire but they are coming at us too fast… months before they hit the shops. And with a new season’s debut right ahead, we thought, now’s the chance to take a quick look back. Or is that forward?
Praise for what Phoebe Philo has done at Celine may running rampant, but judging by her Resort collection, it’s more than well deserved. To put it short, we want every single look from the range, every single piece. Whatever it is, Philo understands how to offer iconic, understated goods with a subtle impact that are overwhelmingly desirable. Highlights here included the demure Liberty floral pajama suit, a tiered leather dress, chiffon and Mexican blanket capes and her now signature fluid wide-leg trouser. For us, Celine has become the one irresistible collection that we can’t help but feel elated about.
Hannah MacGibbon’s camel infected collections at Chloe have been making our Best of lists for several of the past few season’s with her understated take on 70’s cool. And once again, Resort was packed with the kind of must-haves uber-chic girls from Montana to Moscow can wear. Last fall we were mad for her leather sweatsuit and Resort’s abbreviated a-line leather skirt & tunic were a thrilling follow up. MacGibbon clearly understands the Chloe girl, and has yet to disappoint.
Miu Miu & Prada
Miu Miu, above.
Channeling the 40’s at Prada with chic separates & unexpected colorways and Yves Saint Laurent & Sonia Rykiel’s giddy 70’s era take on the 40’s at Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada delivered two hit presentations that are sure to dazzle the vacation set & the real world. Full on styling with piles of colorful bangles, oversize earrings, fur stoles, cheerful prints and hosiery offer a lot to play with in opposition to today’s minimal times.
At Cerruti & his own namesake label, Richard Nicoll continues to offer some of the best options for the die-hard minimalist’s out there who like clean lines with a dash of humour. The fun came via patent bustiers and detailing and genius abstracted screen prints while Nicoll’s hand at the calm & the cool was evident in alluring maxi skirts and smart options for the office.
Valentino has been on a steady roll and the house’s coy look at the 60’s for Resort was grounded with crisp silhouettes, supple leather detailing and altered photo prints that reminded one not only of the house’s 60’s Jackie O. heyday, but of Resorts own destination minded past. While Resorts importance in the cycle of fashion is rapidly expanding, this collection offered hyper-chic options for the ladies who cruise and young girls alike. The two designers at the helm, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, clearly understand progressive glamour and we’re big fans.
Over the years, Acne has somehow been able to score it’s own niche in the world of attainable luxury that’s perennially cool, identifiably studied and right on the money for girls trying to perfect a now popular louche sexiness. Although the posing and slick styling of the presentation gave the range an intense air of drama, each look had a not-so-basic yet real-world friendliness to it. The fitted wide-leg suits with angular jackets, layered dresses and plays on proportion, all with a clean, minimal ease, make Acne all the more desirable. — Naveed Hussain
Photos: via VagabondNYC