NY Fashion Week : Proenza Schouler Spring / Summer 2010
Proenza Schouler had a vision of a collection which I think they executed with sincerity and aplomb.They got it right with their beautifully casual Spring/Summer 2010 outing.
Runway Review: Proenza Schouler has always been somewhat of an anomaly to me: Their collections are cool adaptations of what many a downtown girl would love to see on herself. Yet, when the clothes hit the racks they look uptown, cut for women of whatever age who live a leisurely life far north of "downtown".
This, to me is tricky and a bit deceptive. That said, I understand the difference between the illusion created on the runway and the reality of the bottom line and the fact that not everyone out there can or will wear a leather bodysuit or a neon trench coat and not everyone can spend 2k on a cocktail dress. But shows are the only venue in which designers can realize accumulated inspirations, feelings, and ideas and present them to us in 3D as theatre where they get to direct.
And that’s where I think the boys at Proenza got it right with their beautifully casual Spring/Summer 2010 outing.?
>> See our complete runway coverage and fashion show photos
They had a vision of a collection which I think they executed with sincerity and aplomb.
They stuck to their strengths and improved on them.?The clothing was urban, sporty and youthfully exuberant with just the right amount of cool sophistication. They made good use of their (thanks to Valentino!) fresh funding which was evident in the research they did and the resulting vibrant prints and gorgeuos couture like detailing in the clothing. This time around there was a downtown to uptown appeal to their clothes, they felt universally relatable, and that’s a hard balance to nail dead on as they did.?
For Spring 2010 the duo combined a nostaligic love of surf with the easy cool aesthetic of their downtown girls. They opened the show with shirt tie-waisted looks layered with leather and over-sized blazers and moved on to offer some of the most wearable asymmetrical, tiered and ruffled tank and shirt-dresses around. Unlike some of their peers, their idea of casual wasn’t about too-cool t-shirt dressing and derivative minimalism. Rather, they opted for rich tie-dye prints, bold effervescent colors and a fresh array of optical animalier mixed with scuba undertones. And this in a sea of zippers, studs, vertiginous shoulder pads and never ending faux shredded jeans. ?That’s what got me, with all of the excess and the flamboyance of today’s 80′s renaissance.
It was refreshing to see once again that cool can happen without effort or trickery, that it can be thrown on and you’re out the door. It was great to see an invigorated Proenza Schouler inject their great talent and resources into such a new, strong alternative to looking cool. – Naveed Hussain
Andrea Perini & Naveed Hussain | Team VagaBondNYC- Andrea Perini is a free-lance stylist and the founder and creative director of VagaBondNyc.com, the avant-garde vintage clothing destination specializing in clothing and accessories from the 60s-90s. Andrea buys, styles & shoots everything and feature's her well-edited archive in monthly vintage-only fashion editorials where every item is for sale. As fashion industry veterans, they edit their vintage buys to reflect their understanding of contemporary fashion's indebtedness to its past.
Before launching Vnyc, Andrea worked in fashion editorial at Harper's Bazaar, Elle and New York Mag and finally for (then senior fashion editor) Camilla Nickerson at Vogue assisting her on all of her commercial projects including ads for Chanel, YSL, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, and Narciso Rodriguez. Naveed Hussain, assistant fashion editor, has a BA in art history and is Andrea’s assistant stylist and general assistant at Vagabondnyc. Naveed also covers fashion, music and art for VNyc's blog's readers and has unlimited access to current and future fashion news & trends. He has worked as a buyer and has styled for The Dallas Morning News, The Chicago Tribune, and The New York Times. More information, including press links: VagaBondnyc.com