Highlights from some of our favorite shows…
3.1 Phillip Lim
In a season where heavy handed prints have been the big story, 3.1 Phillip Lim’s slouchy silks in sublime sorbet colors evoked a sporty ease and worked as a welcome urbane minded palette cleanser with a cool minimal, mellow edge.
Taking a cue from sportif elements like track style vented pants made unexpected in languid silk, shorts layered over pants and slouchy full legged athletic shorts, the collection was a winner full of universal appeal and elegant pragmatism.
His vivid pastels felt fresh and were a smart alternative to the hyper neons we’ve seen elsewhere and made a strong case for reserved elegance in a season where everyone seems to be advocating that the louder the result, the better.
On the other hand, color wasn’t the only story here, this is Phillip Lim we are talking about after all, and a 3.1 outing is always certain to dish-up on-trend notes with a canny dose of subtlety.
Tops, pants and even a jumpsuit were treated with contrasting backs via sheer panels and opposing colors and oversized vests were smartly belted and came with asymmetrical fronts.
Preen’s Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton added a delicious femininity to the pixilated prints they’ve been working with over the past few season’s via florals, lace, peplums and prim separates while continuing to move away from deconstruction for a range of thoroughly modern separates with must-have appeal.
The pair were able to work a slew of vivid pastels into something so distinct and new that it leaves us assured with the fact that they are some of New York Fashion Week’s most valuable players. Especially cool were the boxy printed shift dresses and peplum skirts with a curved front wrap.
Taking inspiration from the serenity of the attitude of Tibetan culture and the sound suits of artist Nick Cave, Mary-Kate & Ashley Olsen were back with another stellar, exceptionally crafted and unique slew of must-haves for Spring 2012.
Kimono sleeves, obi belts, sumptuous braided Baha blanket fringe and pajama dressing may have felt evocative of Celine’s relaxed Spring 2011 outing, but the Olsens managed to channel that energy into graceful, dreamy layered separates, some embellished with pearl button embroideries, some with tonal floral prints, for another collection that made us sit up and take note.
This just after four winning years, only goes to further elevate their status amongst other young New York designers beyond head of the class.
Sleek and wonderous takes on urbane, city dressing standbys made for another stand-out collection from Olivier Theyskens and was proof positive that he is indeed the right man for the job as the newly appointed creative director of workwear go-to powerhouse, Theory.
Here, fresh proportions on classic pieces from a drop-waist knife pleated dress to a blazer and shorts combo, created a hyper linear affect on the models, somehow elongating and stream lining the proportions of each model, in that magical, mystical way that only Olivier Theyskens can do, and does so very well. –Naveed Hussain